Tuesday
Heading out between the vines again our first landmark is the hilltop village of San Vicente de la Sonsierra. Here we can have a coffee and a nose around before heading west to the village of Elciego where we'll have lunch.

Elciego is home to the world famous Marques de Riscal bodega, and we'll spot its titanium-roofed building long before reaching town. Designed by Frank Gehry (he of the Guggenheim) it has won awards and draws visitors from around the globe.

In the afternoon we'll strike out towards Viana. The Palacio de Pujadas is right in the centre of the charming 'casco viejo' old part of town. Opposite the hotel is the roofless, ruined church of San Pedro; well worth a quick visit before we head to the Sidreria Armendariz. Here we have an amazing supper accompanied by endless cider, serving ourselves from huge vats in the vaulted basement where we will be eating.